Page 84 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Vertical hearing bone twill
When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic
twill in weft direction, vertical hearing bone result in. The
repeat size of vertical herringbone is calculated from the
regular or base twill weave like as vertical zig-zag weave.
In this case the number of weft yarn in herringbone weave
is double of the number of weft yarn of base twill and the
number of warp yarn is same as base twill weave. (Fig 5)

3 Diamond design (Fig 6)
It is a derivatives of twill weave. It constructed on the
basis of zigzag twill principle. It is obtaining by combining
a horizontal and vertical zigzag twill. So here in the repeat
the number of both warp and weft thread are double then
that in basic twill. Diamond is a reversible design. So, it
may be divided into two equal parts in both vertical and
horizontal axis. Pointed or V-drafting system is used to
produce diamond design.
Diamond design geometrical about their vertical and
horizontal axis. In this weave pointed draft is obtained.

To contract a diamond design at first the design repeat
is selected. It the basic twill is 3 up 3 down, that is 6×6 in
size, the repeat of design will be 12×12 in size.
Here reversal direction occurs after a middle line. Here at
first the basic twill is drowning then the number of central Uses: Towel, Bed cover, Table cloth, Pillow cover etc.
points is selected in zigzag twill. Rather in extended
second half of basic twill the following matter happened.
• The floating point of first half become down in second
half.

• The down of first half become floating in second half.
In hearing bone twill straight draft is used. There are two
type of hearing bone design

1 Horizontal hearing bone twill.
2 Vertical hearing bone twill.
Horizontal hearing bone twill
When hearing bone twill is created by extending the basic
twill in warp direction, horizontal hearing bone result in. 4 Diaper design (Fig 7)
The repeat size of horizontal herringbone is calculated This derivative of twill weave is created on the basis
from the regular or base twill weave like as horizontal herring bone principle. This design is constructed by
zigzag weave. In this case the number of warp yarn combining horizontal and vertical hearing bone twill.
in herringbone weave is double of the number of warp
yarn of base twill and the number of weft yarn is same In the repeat of a diaper design the number of warp and
as base twill weave. weft threads are two type more than that in its basic
twill. So, if the basic twill size is 8×8. Its diaper design
repeat size will 16×16. In case of diaper design, Broken
or straight draft is used
74 Textile & Handloom: Shawl Weaving Artisan : (NSQF - 2024) R.T. Ex.No 1.5.43-48